Monday, August 30, 2010

Build a Garden Oasis Around Your Pool

Great job, the pool is in, the water is clear and inviting, and you have spent a small fortune. But, you now have a big, expensive hole full of water in the back yard. How can you make your pool area more pleasing to the eye? Landscape it! Create an interesting and beautiful garden around your pool that will be the envy of your family and friends. The problem is, you have used up most of your budget on the pool. No Worries, with the help of a professional landscaper you can design the perfect pool garden on a budget.

Thinking about saving a little money by doing it yourself, unless you know all about drainage, correct run-offs, and where any reinforcing bars are located. Not to mention plumbing, your best bet would be to hire a professional. A landscape professional will be involved in the design of the pool; he will know how to address any issues that could possibly end up costing more if not dealt with properly.

Decide how much you can allocate to the landscaping. A good rule of thumb is three quarters of the cost of the pool, e.g. if your pool cost $20,000 you will need to budget $15,000 for good landscaping. Make sure to read your contract to ensure that everything is included (sewerage connections, tippage, rock excavation, and soil removal).

Make sure that your landscaper knows what your budget is, you may have to be a little flexible. Work with your landscaper to create a more effective garden.

There are a few ways to create a beautiful garden without breaking the bank. Instead of doing a lot of expensive paving around the pool, use more lawn. This will also reduce splash out evaporation by allowing water to return to the soil. Everyone knows how valuable water is in Australia right now, even the smallest things you can do to lessen water waste is important. Hopefully, you have already installed a rainwater collection tank, you can use the water that you are already collecting to water your garden. This will show that you care not only about making Australia more beautiful, but also, about conserving natural resources.

If your block slopes and requires retaining walls or drainage, look into less expensive materials. Your landscaper can suggest materials that cost less, but will be just as effective.

When choosing plants, go with smaller trees and plants, they are less expensive than the larger ones. By planting younger smaller plants, you can enjoy nurturing them and watching them grow, this will give you more involvement in you garden and it will satisfy the DIYer in you. Unless you included an in floor cleaning system in your pool, stay away from deciduous trees. The leaves from these trees will only add to cleaning time and cost for maintaining your pool. After all, you want to spend more time entertaining and enjoying your pool, not working on it.

You can have fun and be imaginative without the added stress of overspending to create an attractive and inviting pool side by working together with a landscaper who understands.

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Sunday, August 29, 2010

Keeping Your Toddler Safe in the Home

According to babyworld.co.uk, the top 10 danger points in the home are the stairs, doors, cleaning materials, electric sockets, furniture edges and furniture corners, overfilled playpens, fire, loose cables and cords, bath time and glass.

Because so much furniture in the home has sharp edging or corners, and are at the ideal height for young children to knock into, by simply fitting edge and corner guards you can increase the level of safety in your home. Corner and edge guards come in a variety of colours and are very easy to install.

Some common items of furniture you may wish to have edge or corner protectors on are:

Living rooms: TV unit, low level shelving, dining tablecoffee table, window sills and the fireplace.
Kitchen: Kitchen table, centre work area, cabinets, countertops, stove.
Bathroom: vanity cabinets, low level shelving.
Study: Desk, low level shelving, filing cabinets.
Bedroom: Headboard and footboard, dressing table, bedside units, low level shelving, chests, toy boxes
Entrance way: Storage units, small tables, low level shelving
Outside entertainment area: Brick or stone retaining walls, built-in fireplace, patio table, sharp corners on play equipment

Below are a few safety precautions, not taking much time, but keeping your little family safe in the home:

• Children should be supervised at all times.
• Keep floors free of toys and obstructions that can be tripped over.
• Always use a securely fitted safety harness in a pram, pushchair or highchair.
• Never leave babies unattended on raised surfaces.
• Do not place baby bouncers on raised surfaces.
• The use of baby-walkers and table-mounted high chairs is not recommended.
• Use corner guards or corner protectors on cabinets, coffee and dining tables, or any corner of furniture that does not have a rounded edge.

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Saturday, August 28, 2010

Improving Home Value With A Retaining Wall

Generally there are two reasons for building a retaining wall on your property, which are to either prevent erosion or simply for landscaping purposes. Regardless of the reason why, this type of structure will invariably add value to your home as well as enhancing the appearance of it. The key is to build the structure appropriately for your needs.

In the past, it was a common practice to use discarded railroad ties stacked horizontally to hold back eroding hillsides. These are rarely used today due to environmental concerns as well as because to build a lasting wall you'll require some engineering on it. Critical to the design is size of the retaining structure needed and drainage conditions. If you're removing a significant volume of earth to widen a garden for example, you may need a piling or anchored wall to support the load behind it.

If stopping erosion is the only reason, you may not need any supporting structure at all. Instead, a wide variety of geosynthetics are available to use in sheets to provide mechanical stabilization of the soil. Layered straps, soil nailing and other techniques also work well depending upon the scope of the problem and the physical size of the project.

One of the most popular types of retaining wall designs incorporates the use of artificial stone to build expansive, yet beautiful structures that rival any botanical garden! These materials allow for flexible designs suited to any size landscaping project and will last for years with very little maintenance. Combined with exterior lighting, stone pathways and a careful selection of plants and flowers, you'll turn your garden into a fantasy land!

Depending upon your own needs and taste, retaining walls can cost a small fortune. Do it yourself projects will usually cost $10 to $15 per square foot, while those installed by a contractor may run double that price. For a typical home garden where there are no structural issues, plan on spending in the neighborhood of about $3,000. The more complex the design, the higher the cost, so budget accordingly.

You may be required to obtain building permits, engineering or architectural drawings and your municipality may want to inspect your work at different stages of construction. Be sure to check zoning regulations in your area as well - different regions have different building codes for retaining walls and may limit your choices. Because you're increasing the value of your home, it may have an impact on your property taxes as well!

Last of all, most home centers provide landscaping design services to help you develop a plan and a budget for building a retaining wall on your property. Take advantage of these free services whenever possible - it will save you time and effort over figuring everything out yourself!

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Thursday, August 26, 2010

When to Use Basement Waterproofing Products For Foundation Repairs

Basement waterproofing repairs constitute some of the most expensive professional services you can incur for your home. Every year, homeowners across the country shell out thousands of dollars to have basement waterproofing companies excavate around their foundation, repair footer drains, and service their basement walls. In many cases, however, you might be able to sidestep the high prices of professional contractors and do your own basement wall repair by purchasing a few inexpensive products.

The level of damage to your foundation walls has a lot to do with what kind of repair work you will need to have done. While many waterproofing companies offer free estimates on work, you can't always rely on them to tell whether you really need professional help or if you could just complete the work yourself.

The interior basement waterproofing products that you should consider for doing your own repair work include waterproofing sealant, paint and crack fillers. If your walls are showing a bit of dampness and small cracks, but you don't have the budget to pay for professional waterproofing, then a temporary fix can help.

Make sure that you seal all visible cracks using high-grade sealant, and clean the basement wall thoroughly before applying waterproofing paint. Make sure that the paint you choose also includes an anti-mildew and mold agent. While this will only fix your foundation walls on the inside and provides only a temporary fix, it will allow you to make your basement more livable and aesthetically pleasing.

One word of warning: these kind of damages definitely indicate a larger problem with your foundation drainage system, and you should call a professional contractor when your budget can afford the expense. Basement waterproofing products are only a temporary solution, but to really fix your foundation problems, you'll need the help of local professionals.

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Wednesday, August 25, 2010

What Can Be Done About That Foundation Crack?

The importance of fixing basement foundation cracks as soon as they are noticed cannot be stressed enough. This will prevent further problems like leakage of water. The crack will grow in size and become less controllable if repairs are not performed immediately. There are methods to fix and prevent this occurrence in your basement without extensive or expensive work.

If there is a leak, then polyurethane foam will help to seal the crack and prevent water from leaking in. This material is for repairs that are not related to the structure of the premise. Polyurethane foam is elastomeric, therefore, the material can enter any size crack, even the minimal ones. A major benefit to using this sealant is that it sets quickly so liquid cannot enter while the crack is injected.

Epoxy is used in areas with structural damage. The material is slow setting and takes several hours to completely change to hard form. While it is in its original form, the sealant may drain from the crack. This may be the case if any walls have separated from the building's foundation. When repairing cracks, using caulk or cement is not a good choice. This will not stop the liquid from leaking behind the caulk. The material used to seal the crack will not remain and will wear off during the cold weather when frozen.

Water must have a way to drain so a drain system is important. Interior tiles and exterior tiles are the two types used for basement waterproofing. The tiles have a pipe that has holes to let the accumulate of liquid out. It is housed by a trench and then enclosed under gravel. Water from the pipes flows into a sump pump and is stopped from harming the building's structure and foundation. The tiles vary in shape and the material they are made from. They are available in rectangular, round, or square.

Interior drain tiles can be installed on top of the concrete, in the concrete slab, or under it. The most popular placement selection is under the concrete by creating a trench for the pipe and covering it. Exterior drain tiles are put in during the building process. They are installed outside of the building to send the water collected away from the foundation and into the ground outside.

Though this method is more expensive, this is a quality method to eliminating water leakage. The area that is located near the foundation is dug up and then rebuilt. This type of drain is located by the footing of the foundation and requires a sump pump. Water should be removed slowly from the basement to prevent foundation and structure harm.

If the water is removed fast, the floor and walls may break. You must balance both the outside and inside pressure to prevent indoor pressure from exceeding the outdoor pressure. The water should be eliminated one foot at a time after the outdoor water level has receded. Repeat until all of the water is out.

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Tuesday, August 24, 2010

How to Choose a Basement Contractor

If you have illustrations, an idea or layout, then you have the data the basement contractor bidding on the task could use in organizing a presentation. The contractor should inspect the basement to be redone and analyze your requirements and preferences. If they attempt to alter your concepts for the purpose of making the task easy, watch out! If the company requires a much less payment, don't make rash decisions. Always ask for a reason. It is not rare for mistakes to occur with a comprehensive quote. Make as many inquiries as you want, after all, it is your house and your money we're talking about.

There are a number of models of companies to select from. There is a leading heavy, sales oriented basement contractor with tons of overhead-this is a very costly choice. Then there's the handyman with not much expert trade experience, which will also charge you very cheap.

Finally, there's the company run by an experienced trades person with commendable people skills. The last choice is generally middle to high priced. Select one that you think is most suitable for your specific requirements and have them quote on your basement idea or even have them make one for you. An experienced contractor shouldn't have a hard time making one for you. Allow them time to build up on the basement idea, as quality will require this, alongside hard work.

A good way to check out a great basement contractor is to ask for recommendations from your family, friends, neighbors and colleagues. Obtain some of the top and most reliable basement experts in your area. Once you've made up a list, check the reputation of each basement contractor.

Essentially, you must ascertain that they have an established business, as half of contractors will actually go down business within the initial 5 years (check with the Better Business Bureau). An established company will be readily available if you need them, and if you need references, they should be willing to give them to you. If you organize yourself well, a basement finishing and waterproofing can enhance the value and spaciousness of your house.

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Monday, August 23, 2010

Remodeling Bathrooms - What to Look Out For

Tired of your old bathroom with its plain and dreary accessories? Do you keep looking at those ultra modern designer bathrooms in glossy magazines and keep wishing that you too had a similar one? Well, its time you thought of remodeling your old bathroom.

Remodeling bathrooms make a lot of sense mainly as it raises the sale value of your house. Moreover, bathrooms undergo a lot of wear and tear as years pass by and getting them remodeled to your changing needs is a lot more sensible than wasting time and money on getting leaks and drips repaired. Given below are a few tips that you can consider before remodeling your bathroom.

One of the main areas which you can bring in some change is the wall and floor tiles. Ceramic tiles are available in a lot of colors, patterns and types. Investing in them are a lot more sensible than painting or wall papering because these, being water resistant, last for ages. The same goes for floor tiles too. Go in for bigger tiles in lighter shades for a more spacious look. Ceramic floor tiles can also be used as decorative borders, and in combination with light colors, it adds to the illusion of space. It would also be great if you could install heated floor tiles for your bathroom. Undoubtedly, your family would appreciate it much, but it would also be an added asset at the time of selling your house.

Another great way to remodel your old bathroom with its worn out fixtures and accessories is by getting it fitted with a new washbasin and bathtub. It really alters the way the bathroom looks and is a lot cheaper than trying to get the old, overly used tub and porcelain sink get back its original shine and looks. Adding in a shower area to your bathroom can give it a stylish look and is more convenient for your daily showers. You can even enclose it in small cubicles of frosted glass to give it more privacy and to prevent water from splashing to other dry areas.

If you are on a budget, then relocating toilets may not actually work out; but you can definitely get new toilets that match in color and style with your tub and wash basin. If space and budgeting allows, you may also add in a matching bidet to your bathroom.

Faucets are another thing which rather grow dull and starts malfunctioning after a period of time. We often spend a lot of time and money trying to get leaks repaired. But if you are remodeling your bathroom, it does not make sense in retaining your old faucets. Go in for trendier ones with much more functions and stylish looks.

Lighting is an area which most of us tend to overlook. Go in for specific wall lights rather than an overhead light so that your bathroom gets a real 'designer' feel. Let your imagination go wild, and make your bathroom a fun place to visit!

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Sunday, August 22, 2010

The Appeal of a Wood Retaining Wall

A well built wood retaining wall can add to any landscape, providing both visual beauty and a high degree of safety to any sloped property. When put together correctly a retaining wall built out of landscape timbers provides as much stability as any rock or concrete block wall, with the added good looks that only wood provides. The other nice thing is the functionality that wood provides, allowing for any number of designs that can be customized for each individual landscape.

A wood retaining wall is just as durable and functional as any stone, or block wall as well as being a safe and effective way to add a dynamic feature to your landscape. Wood adds a certain luster to any landscaping project and is a great material to utilize in the yard.

It is important to properly lay out and design any retaining wall, and one made out of wood is no different. A small wall is easy for the weekend do-it-yourselfer but for a large wall that is required to hold back a large sloping area it is best to go with a professional landscape service that has experience with large and intricate retaining wall construction. This is particularly true of a terraced wall that may have stairs built into it.

Some people may question the strength of a wood retaining wall but because of the way they are built they are exceptionally strong and are able to hold back large amounts of dirt with little problem. In fact the bigger and more complex the wall the stronger it usually is. This is because each section of wall is tied together, creating a large interconnected frame work. This creates a very heavy wall that is impervious to just about anything.

If you are a homeowner with a sloping landscape then a wood retaining wall can be a great way to add a visual element to your landscape that will also add value to your whole property. When it comes to retaining walls there are many choices and wood should always be a first consideration.

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Saturday, August 21, 2010

Your Rights If Injured in a Bus Accident

Unfortunately, bus accidents are a fairly common occurrence, and they often involve serious injuries. Because of the difficulty maneuvering such a large, heavy vehicle and sometimes because of the inexperience of the driver, bus accidents happen with some frequency. The seating arrangements and lack of seatbelts can also contribute to severe injuries being suffered by bus passengers.

Bus companies and public entities operating bus lines are known in the law as "common carriers". When they assume the business of transporting the general public, they vow to carry them with vigilance and safety. Such carriers are responsible for any, even the slightest, negligence and are required to do all that is humanly possible to keep their passengers protected under all circumstances.

Moreover, if a carrier voluntarily accepts an ill or disabled person as a passenger, it must exercise as much care as is reasonably necessary to ensure their safety, in view of his mental and physical condition. "Full and equal access" is defined as access that complies with the regulations developed under the federal Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. When there is a violation of these rules and an accident results, the injured passengers have the right to be compensated for their injuries and damages.

Even when an emergency situation arises, through no fault of the driver, the bus operator's failure to safely deal with that emergency will give rise to liability. For example, if a bus traveling at freeway speeds encounters an object in the roadway causing a tire to blow, the bus driver's failure to maneuver the vehicle to a safe stop is negligence. In that situation the driver has an obligation to brake and pull the vehicle safely out of the travel lanes. If the driver instead continues to depress the accelerator, in an effort to reach the next off ramp, causing the bus to strike a retaining wall or some other stationary object, the injuries to the unrestrained passengers will be the responsibility of the bus company.

The duties and responsibility owed to passengers aboard a bus equally apply to those attempting to board the bus. By way of example, a nearly 50 year-old woman living in the greater Los Angeles area used the Metro Line bus system for her daily travel to and from work. After work, she walked to the bus stop located just a short distance from her place of employment. As she attempted to board the bus, the bus driver suddenly closed the door, knocking the victim to the ground and pulling her into harms way. The would-be bus passenger ended up being crushed by the rear wheels.
Every bus accident case is unique and the potential causes of harm almost endless. An experienced trial attorney can help you find your way through the facts and the law to reach a fair result.

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Friday, August 20, 2010

How To Build A Koi Pond

The first aspect is location. Avoid building under large trees, this will reduce cleaning in the winter months. Garden ponds tend to look most natural if situated at the lowest point in your garden or yard. The pond needs to be deep enough to support life all year round especially when temperatures drop below freezing. There should be an area approx 1/3 of the overall base that is at least 4 - 5' deep, to shallow off if required to 2'.

There are two means to building a Koi pond . You can either dig out the area and line with a purpose pond liner, or you can again dig out the area and fit a fibreglass pond shell.

When choosing to use a liner, it will be necessary to ensure all sharp stones have carefully been removed and a protective layer of sand be placed across the bottom. Discarded old carpet laid against the side can also act as a great buffer to protect the lining. When purchasing the lining always remember to allow at least 18" overlap all the way round, this will be held in place with either ornamental stones or coping slabs.

This simple formula will calculate the size of liner required:

Take the length + twice the maximum depth + 36"

Take the width + twice the maximum depth + 36".

When fitting you will need the help of at least two other people, carefully roll out the liner and lay across the hole. One person will need to get in bare foot to push the liner into position and smooth out the corner creases. Start to fill the pond, position helpers equal distances around the pond to gently pull the liner into place. Once you are satisfied the liner is evenly distributed continue to fill the pond.

Periodical incisions can be made through the overlap between ornament holding stones for planting a few plants if the finished height is at ground level. Excess liner can then be cut away after placing the holding stones in situ. There is nothing wrong in building a retaining wall should you wish to have the pond raised, or you are building on an existing concrete base. Just ensure the wall will be strong enough to take the weight of the water (if unsure consult a builder).

Using a pre moulded fibreglass pond will have to be placed to sit snugly in the dug out area and finished to ground level. Lay the mould upside down and mark out the area to be excavated allowing approx an additional 6" all the way round to manoeuvre the shell into place. As with the liner it's advisable to lay a layer of sand on the bottom to act again as a buffer. Back fill and gaps remaining after the pond as been fitted to ensure adequate support for the frame.

Once the main pond area is completed you will need to calculate the volume of water it holds to know the size of filtration system and pump you will require. Fibreglass ponds should be supplied with this information. However if you have built your own pond you will need to do a little arithmetic.

This simple formula will calculate the volume of water in your pond:

Imperial Gallons

Length x Width x Average Depth x 6.24 = Volume in Imperial Gallons

Litres

Length x Width x Average Depth x 1000 = Volume in Litre

US Gallons

Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 = Volume in US Gallons

Once you know the size of your pond, file this info somewhere safely, if ever in the future you need to add any treatment to the water you will need this information.

You will now be able to purchase a filtration system and pump which will be correct for your size of pond. All good aquatic centres will be able to offer you different products according to your needs and budget.

One of the most important points to now make here is, OK you have your pump, your filter system and your pond up and running, but as most Koi keepers will tell you it's vital to have good water. I would recommend no fish be placed in the pond for at least 4 weeks, this will allow your filtration system to mature and the water to settle. After this time start by introducing just a couple of very small Koi and keep a very close watch on their health for a few weeks. It's not a bad idea to purchase a water testing kit, and take samples and test regularly to make sure the water is good.

I was once told, we don't keep or look after the fish, but we are keepers of water. Get that right and you will have Healthy Happy Koi.

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Thursday, August 19, 2010

What Can Your Business Use Awnings For, and What Are They?

An Awning is used as a temporary cover for an area to ensure that what is beneath is protected from the elements. The number of applications for these vary widely, with people using them as summer shelters, shelters for market stalls, Ferrari enclosures at race meets the list goes on. Awnings also come in a multitude of sizes, some simply cover a window on a house while others provide external space round the entirety of a house or building.

A good awnings manufacturer will be able to make an awning that matches exactly what you need so always shop around when purchasing one. To reduce the weight of these temporary structures large wooden posts and steel rods have been replaced by the better manufacturers by high grade 6061 T6 Aluminium extrusions. These frames are extremely light weight and very strong with it, designed to make erection a quick and straight forward thing.

Whereas a few years ago heavy canvas was still widely used this has mostly been superseded by PVC. The reason for this is that unless stored properly canvas has a real tendency to rot, it is also extremely heavy to put up and down once it is wet. PVC on the other hand has normally been treated against sunlight damage, has been treated against fungal growth and should be up to the European standards against fire. PVC can normally be bought in a multitude of colours and you can get your corporate branding placed on all of the panels so that the whole awning becomes a piece of marketing.

There are different systems to ensure that the awning stays in place from cord, elasticated bungee or threaded tensioners that attach securely to a fixed object. Not only can most walls be branded within an inch of there lives you can also choose to have walls that are see through, zipped or with a waist high divider. With the new aluminium frames comes a greater flexibility in how you partition yourself off from outside world and these external spaces can be fully double glazed with hung wooden flooring put in place.

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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Why Choose a Pier and Beam Foundation?

Building a home is an exciting venture. Homeowners get to choose wall coverings, flooring materials, up-to-date appliances, room size variances, and windows and doors. But, what most homeowners do not realize is that building a home starts from the ground up, from the foundation.

The most important step to building a new home is choosing the most efficient and safe foundation for your property location. Researching foundation bases is essential in securing the structure of your new home. Some contractors are knowledgeable about foundations and will help you choose which is best for your home. But, there are many who will pour a foundation of their choosing without discussing the choice with you, the homeowner.

Two foundation choices that a new homeowner should be aware of are slab-on-grade foundations and pier and beam foundations. The two are quite different when it comes to construction, cost, and longevity.

Slab-on-grade foundations are constructed with reinforced concrete and are usually shallow, quickly built, and inexpensive. For a builder that doesn't have to live in the homes that he builds, slab foundations are a dream. Slab foundations are used with homes that do not have basements. A major disadvantage to slab-on-grade foundations is that they are not resistant to seasonal movement changes and moisture disbursement due to root growth. In other words, slab foundations are not a long-term option for homes in North Texas. Another disadvantage is that generally all piping is placed under the slab foundation causing a very costly procedure should a water pipe burst.

Pier and beam foundations, on the other hand, rate a few steps above a slab-on-grade foundation. Pier and beam foundations incorporate a crawl space (usually at least 18 inches) beneath the home and footings filled with concrete to support the slab. This type of foundation is not considered a time saver, but it is safer and more convenient. The crawl space allows access to heating and plumbing utilities without having to break through the concrete slab. The piers mean foundations are less susceptible to damage due to ground shifting, a problem many North Texas homes with slab foundations experience. If extreme ground shifting does occur, the foundation is easily adjusted, a process that is much less expensive than slab foundation repairs, a process most homes in North Texas will have to undergo.

Since pier and beam foundations leave homeowners walking on a suspended wood platform, they are much easier on the body's joints. Pier and beam foundations are preferred by back pain suffers over slab foundations.

Pier and beam foundations are generally used for homes built in the Northern part of the country because the climate consists of the freeze and thaw conditions. This condition requires that the foundation be built deeply in to the ground. The safety feature here is that deep foundations are very rarely affected by climate changes. But, the shifting grounds of North Texas make pier and beam foundations the best, longest-lasting choice for foundations in the area.

Monster Constructors is professionally known for laying pier and beam foundations in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex. They will test the ground on which the home is to be built to decipher the best foundation for that particular area.

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Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Sprinkler and Irrigation Confusion - The Answer

Hydrogen Oxide or commonly known as water is a very essential element in growing plants. Every one has plants at their homes, even your lawn consists of grasses. Everywhere you go, plants are all but too important especially in agriculture. That is why it is important to know that just because they are all plants it doesn't mean that they need the the same amount of water. Some need just a sprinkle and some may need more. That's where Sprinkler system and Irrigation systems come in.

If you have or are planning to have a huge lawn on your front yard you'll probably be planting green grass on it. Well, it's just normal that this green lawn will need watering. Grass, also called graminoids, need only little amounts of water. The most recommended would be one and a half inches of water every week. Sprinklers makes use of pipes, to spray water evenly over the lawn area. This is why all golf courses use sprinklers because it can reach a large area that will surely be watered. Sprinklers will definitely keep your watering chores as easy as possible.

Early mornings are the best time of the day to water your lawns. This doesn't necessarily mean that you have to get up early in the morning to water it. You can get those sprinkler timers that are readily available on the market. Purchase it, and set it the timer on for early mornings. In this way, even when you are away, your lawn would still look as green as it has ever been.

Those Sprinklers do well in watering your lawns, but for some plants in your garden it won't. This is because these sprinklers have limitations. As they spray the water, some of it evaporates in the air. And there is a possibility that it wont reach the root levels of some plants. Besides, some plants will need more than one and a half inches of water every week.

So what else can you use for your other plants? Well, irrigation systems is the answer. Irrigation systems are often the choice of gardeners, farmers and even great companies in agriculture. It works well especially in places where rainfall is a lot of times, an impossible dream. Irrigation systems have a lot of types but for gardening, the best system would be the drip irrigation system.

The drip irrigation system makes use of emmiters that ensures the uniformity of amount of water distributed to the plants. One of the reasons why this is the best choice for your garden is that it hinders the evaporation of water in the air. In turn, it would be a guarantee that the water will reach your plants' root levels. Also, drip irrigation system uses lesser amount of water compared to other irrigation systems.

Watering your lawn or your plants will surely not be a biggy for you, now that you have read about what watering system will be suitable for your desired area. We wish you, your lawn and your plants well--- well enough to grow your lawn and plants, the right way.

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Monday, August 16, 2010

How to Form Building Footings

You should be able after reading this, to perform simple forming methods for linear footings and pier footings for a basic foundation. I will cover optional ways to form foundation walls as well. Along the way I will leave you hints that will either be ways to save money, safety items or perhaps a reference or two for you to go to for more information if you need it.

Linear Footing Formwork- Linear footings is a fancy word for strip footings that you may have seen being placed under a new house or garage. They are the first basic piece in the foundation system you will need for your project. Linear footings may form a square, a circle, an arc or perhaps just a projection sticking out from the main building that will support a knee wall or a retaining wall.

Observe therewill be several men involved as well as the use of wheelbarrows to haul the concrete and place it in the footing forms. Also note the small squares in the center of the excavation are for a pier footing that may support a column later on. The concrete is placed and leveled off flush with top of forms.

Materials: Materials for footings can range from dimensional lumber such as a 2" x 12" or 2' x10" to plywood, scrap lumber pieces, or any other wood you have laying around. Typically, footing lumber can be used over and over again to save money. 12 penny,10 penny and 8 penny common nails, some string line, pencils, level, ruler or measuring tape and a tripod and bubble level. A tripod and level can be rented by the day from most Rental centers. They will show you how to set it up and use it if you need help. A string line bubble level is approximately $2.00 at most home hardware stores.

Tools-Long handled pointed shovels, short handled square shovel, hammers, pick, 12 pound sledge hammer, tie wire, and a chalk line box.

Reinforcement- In most parts of the country steel reinforcement is required in foundation footings. It could be 2-#5 bars continuous or 2-#6's and this information will be shown on your building drawings. Reinforcement bar sizes are based on 1/8" increments of 1". So #5vbar is 5/8" thick, #6 bar is 6/8 or ¾" thick and so on. Bars range from #3 to ##24 but will never see anything larger than a #7 in any typical house footing. Rebar (for short) is available at home centers, lumberyards and if you have a local steel supplier in the phone book, they may deliver as well. Rebar comes in 20' or 30'lengths with 20' lengths which are easier to handle and are preferable. You can bend a #3, 4 or 5 in a simple jig made of stacked cement blocks or a trailer hitch on a pickup truck. It will take some effort but there aren't that many to bend.

Cutting rebar may be done with a demolition saw or a skill saw with a carbide blade although that is much slower. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES! Flying debris from the saw blade and sparks can cause serious eye injuries. Watch the sparks as well. Be aware of where you're working and have a firm footing when doing this work. Make sure no one is standing in the path of the cutting debris or sparks.

Rebar installed in a pier footing. Many footings have 2 or 3 continuous bars tied together end to end for added strength of the footing. Walls may have just vertical bars or both vertical and horizontal bars in them.

Installation: Here's the fun part where you actually see something getting done. Once you have performed the layout of the building lines, you are ready to start installing the formwork. Remember, this is not cabinet or finished work that will be seen later on. It is simply a temporary form to hold the concrete in shape until it dries. When your concrete is hardened, YOU RIP ALL THE FORMS BACK OUT! While we are here, when you have finished and poured your footings, remove ALL wood from around the work. Leaving wood in place and burying it will draw insects and especially termites. They just love damp wood. This will be a serious problem later on. Take your time to clean it all out. Start in one corner of your foundation (we will for now assume it is a rectangle) and start laying out the longest lengths of lumber you have to use. Your drawings will tell you if your footing is 20" wide and 10"' deep or 24" wide and 12" deep and so on. The first number given such as 24" x12" typically means the width of the footing is 24", and the depth is 12". Typical means this is the size used everywhere unless the architect shows a different size in a specific place. If your footing is 24" x 12", you would be using 2" x12" x 12' or 10' dimensional lumber marked as SPF. (Spruce, Pine, Fir). In different areas of the country, faming lumber could be Southern Yellow Pine, white pine or other most common and cheapest wood available. Remember, this is not structural framing lumber so there is no reason to buy the highest priced wood for this work. Buy the Cheapest!

OK so you worked your way all around the building and find out the building doesn't fit your lumber lengths. Amazing! Say the building is 42' long. by lapping your forms one foot each, you will only get 39' from 4 10' pieces and you need 42'. Now you are allowed to cut some pieces to fit the corners. Try to keep the cutting to a minimum so you can save your lumber for another project. OK, now we have lumber laid out all the way around the foundation. Holding the lumber in place can be done by several methods and all are fine.

Formwork can be held in place by using wooden stakes, steel stakes, perforated strapping steel tape, or wood spreaders. Steel stakes are quicker but are expensive to buy. If you can rent a box of 24 or 48, do so as they greatly speed up the work. If you are using wood stakes you have to purchase some 1" x 3" x12' lumber for cutting of stakes. If your ground is very soft or wet, the stakes may have to be 30"-36" long, if the ground is firm 24" long stakes will do. Cut a point on each stake and make a couple of dozen of them to start. Stand your first footing form directly under you layout line and drive a stake alongside on the outside! You have to be able to remove them later. Now keeping the form under your layout line, move along the board and place another stake at the other end keeping the entire length of the board under the string line. Make sure your form is in line with the foundation footing layout line. Place your second form alongside the first on the outside and lap it 1" over the first. Drive a 16 penny duplex nail in the lap to hold it while you work along. Third form; place it to the inside of the 2nd board, lapping it one foot as well. Nail these together from the outside! Continue on around the footing until you have stood forms for the entire exterior of the footing including corners. Lapping in and out all the way around. Now start your inside form. Stand the board 24" away from the outside form board and hold it in place with either a 28" piece of the 1" x3" lumber scrap keeping a minimum of 24" between the forms. The building inspector will check this dimension. He/she does not care if it's slightly larger but he/she will fail it, if it's less than 24". Again work all the way around your footing until you have a full rectangle with a form board for both the inside and outside of your footing in place.

Now is the time to begin making your forms strong enough to hold the weight of the concrete. Starting in one corner, add enough wood stakes, nailing each one as you go to the formwork with 10 penny duplex nails. Steel stakes have pre-drilled holes in them so you simply insert the nail in a hole and drive it in. Continue this until one side is secured soundly. Now stand the inside forms making sure you maintain the minimum width required by your drawings. Install "spreaders" made of scrap lumber across the top of the forms to hold them apart and help hold them from tipping over when the concrete is placed inside. Continue on all the way around the footings until all forms are nailed and staked. NOTE: As you proceed with the formwork, using your level and tripod, make sure the forms are LEVEL! They are of no use if they weave up and down and will make installation of the foundation itself, nearly impossible. If you encounter rock or other obstruction, ask your building inspector how he/she wants to see the footing formed at that location. They may allow you to pin the rebar to the rock, ask that some of the rock be removed to provide a level surface and so on. Now install the rebar. Just slide the long lengths under your spreaders making bends at the corners. Using tie wire, hang the bars from the spreaders so the rebar is located within the bottom 1/3 of the footing height. 12" high footing? Hang the bars 3-4" above the ground. This will help provide the strongest footing you can make. When all rebar is complete, call for inspection and take a rest.

Placing the concrete-When pouring a large footing or foundation, you will most likely purchase the concrete from a Redi-mix concrete supplier. They will want to know, how many yards you need, what strength concrete and what time of day you would like it to be on site. Have your information ready. Order two days before you need it and check again on the day it is supposed to be delivered to make sure there will not be any delays. Weather, plant breakdowns and even manpower can sometimes delay truck delivery times. They will get there as closely to the hour you requested as possible. BE READY! When the truck shows up is not the time to find out you have a flat on the wheelbarrow or can't find the shovels. Have your tools and manpower ready. Most companies allow up to 1 hour on site for unloading. After that you pay additional time charges for the truck and the driver. It can get costly! Unless you are superhuman and very well experienced do not try and unload 10yds of concrete with only 2 people. You most likely will spill more than you use, the concrete will get hard before you finish it and rushing around can cause an injury. Be prepared with sufficient manpower.

After the concrete is placed in your forms and roughly troweled off to the top of the forms, take a few minutes break. The concrete will start to setup and if your plans call for vertical bars in the footings for the new foundation walls, this is the time to install those. They should all be pre-made and laid out roughly where they are to go in the footings. Again, plan ahead. You may "stab" these rebar into the wet concrete, wiggling them around slightly to get the concrete to fill in around the hole you made. Your plans will tell you if the bars go on the inside or outside "face" pf the wall or in the center and how far apart they are to be. "Inside" and "Outside" face simply means the inside or outside of the new all. Most times the bars are to be placed 2" away from the face. Your drawings will tell you this information. Starting in one corner, install one bar in intersection of the corner and then measure whatever dimension the drawing shows for centers. 32" on center (O.C.). Just measure over 32" and install the next bar and so on. When you come to the next corner, make sure one bar is at the corner intersection center again. You can add extra bars of you have a question, just don't add too few.

Next day. Now that you found the muscles you never knew you had (just a little sore?) it is time to strip all the formwork off the footings. Yes all that great form work you did is now just scarp lumber pile material. Take ALL wood out of the foundation area. Rotting wood underground draws termites and other nasty insects! Footings are complete.

Foundation forms completed and filled with concrete. Not child's play!

Foundation walls: Walls may be constructed of concrete block units (Masonry or CMU), poured concrete, pressure treated wood and today even Styrofoam foundation blocks are available. Whatever the type you are using, if you did a good job on your footings and they are nice and level, the walls are going to be easy to install. If your foundation is masonry, your work is done. Your mason will now layout the wall locations, lay the CMU, pour the CMU cells that have the rebar in them and install the straps for the sill plate for the house, shed, garage, etc. Make sure his contract includes all this work and materials. If the foundation is concrete, the concrete contractor will bring all the forms with him. Again, make sure all the formwork, wall ties, rebar required, windows and other accessories are included in his contract. It is possible for a homeowner to form and pour a foundation but it is not child's play. For rentals, rebar installation for the walls, actual placement of the concrete, how to use the trucks properly and possibly the use of a concrete pump are all best left to the pros. Concrete is extremely heavy when wet. Improperly constructed wall forms can result in a "blow-out" of the formwork and serious injury or death can result.

Footings are the basic and first building block of your project. Sheds may sit only on 4 solid concrete blocks but those are the footings. They too must be solid and level to provide a good footing for your shed. Take your time and do it right and the rest of your building will be easier to keep plumb and level.

Hopefully this has given you lots of ideas and information on the right and wrong ways to install footings. Whether it is a large or small project, the theory is the same. Take your time to read your drawings, always use safety glasses when using a power tool or placing concrete.
Pete

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

Related : Industrial Estates

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Building Retaining Wall Without Mortar

Do you want to add beauty and value to your home or business with a stone retaining wall? Yes it is so that a experienced stone wall builder can surely build the perfect stone wall - and it will last forever. But the installation of a stone wall can be performed by the adventurous do-it-yourselfer with relative ease and great success.

First you have to determine the length of the wall (in feet) and the height of the wall (in feet). If the wall is no higher than 4 feet high, you will be able to use stones about 1 foot wide. That will make the the retaining wall about 1 foot thick . If wall goes over 4 feet high you should contact engineer.

Let's start building our retaining wall

Dig a trench about 6-inches deep and about a 12" wide along the base of the proposed location of retaining wall. Fill it with crushed stone as a base. With the dry stack retaining wall you get away without building a elaborate footing system.

Sort your stone by sizes so you can easily find the size stone you are looking for. (This make installation much faster and less frustrating searching for that perfect stone). Exp. 6" pieces, 5" pieces, 4" pieces etc. Keep the attractive stones for the top row of retaining wall.

Place the largest stone in the trench, end to end. Lay all your stones flat as they would lie naturally on the ground. Make sure stone is below trench line so it wont slide.

Now, as you begin to stack the wall, working from one end to the other, you must remember to slope it back toward the high ground or batter the wall. This is accomplished by simply standing your level on end and measuring to the face of the wall.

As you build you retaining wall try to avoid continuous horizontal and vertical joints by breaking them up with larger and smaller stones. Place stones so they fit tightly together for strength and a nice appearance. Fill in the area behind your wall with dirt and compact it as you go. (Not clay) Every now and then , turn a long stone into the hillside to act as an anchor stone. This will help the stability of the retaining wall. Finally almost finished. Remember those nice pieces we saved for the top of the retaining wall we can add them now.

Take your time. The final results will be very much worth the effort in the apperance of your property.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED

1). Sledge Hammer

2). Tape Measure

3). 4' Level

4). Shovel & Rake

5). String Line

6). Crushed Stone

7). Select your stone

How to calculate amount of stone

Let's say we are going to build a wall 100 foot long X 3 foot high X 1 foot thick

Here is our formula:

100' X 3' X 1' = 300 Cubit Foot (CF)

The stone weight will weigh an average of 100 pounds per cubic foot.

300cf X 100 pounds/cf = 15 tons

Make sure you buy good quality stone material, all stone is not good quality.
Good luck with your retaining wall project.

Thanks To : ECO Kettle

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Retaining Walls - How They Are Effective

Retaining walls can be made from a number of materials, like concrete, stones, boulders, large slabs, railroad ties and there are even limestone retaining walls as well. Not only do they look attractive, but also provide security and privacy. You can even use the retaining walls as feature walls by adding some focal points, like fountains, plants, etc. A retaining wall made from natural materials looks like a part of the landscape, thus giving it a very smooth and finished appearance.

There are many advantages to installing a retaining wall in your garden, and you can even use it as an exterior wall. Let's take a look at some of the benefits to help you decide better.

o Designing these walls is very simple and it can be made to look like a part of your property's exterior walls. Also, the designs depend upon the proposed use and function. For example, if a home owner wants the wall to be a part of the landscape, then using stone slabs to build an attractive wall is an excellent choice.

o If the wall is used specifically as a retaining wall, then the wall area is dug out either by hand, bobcat or even large digging equipment, depending upon the size of the project. The side of the slope or the hill is dug away to create a level area to install the retaining wall. Sometimes the area is even dug out in different levels to create a visual stepping stone effect.

o Once this area is dug out, the ground is then leveled so the wall rises straight up. They even add sand using a yard roller in order to pack down the surface and then the bottom layer of the wall is laid down and checked to ensure that it is level.

o The wall is then built with the use of the chosen material and once this wall has reached its determined height, a small amount of backfill is filled or even a large amount of dirt is added. This all depends upon the slope of the original area.

o Now, sometimes the retaining wall is used only to level out an uneven sloping yard and the yard owners can make it a more level yard space by making the retaining wall higher than the slope, by adding dirt after which sod is also added.

o Small retaining walls are created on the ground in order to create landscape designs as well.

o These smaller retaining walls are even then filled with mud to make raised flower beds or even create a fountain area next to the patio or the entryway. These small retaining walls are usually only two feet tall and are exclusively used only for decorative purposes.

o The much larger and taller retaining walls are generally built along the sloping edges in order to keep the land from eroding or washing away. Rain water and ground water can easily erode the soil on slopes, which can even lead the slopes to create a landslide. This can be quite dangerous and should be prevented. This is where retaining walls are advantageous. These walls are generally made of concrete and they are constructed by placing forms in the designated area and then pouring in the concrete. When the concrete hardens the forms are removed to expose the new concrete walls.

o This is used all over the city where there are chances of the earth eroding or washing away. This is especially required if the roads are widened or the streets have to be added.

Recommend : Home Owner Insurance

Friday, August 13, 2010

How to Lay a Stone Pitching Wall in a Garden

Stone pitching is a method of retaining soil in a slopping ground or terrain. When landscaping lawns, the ground is prepared and then pitching is done before vegetation is planted. This involves laying broken pieces of stones or hardcore on the soil in different patterns.Jointing is done with cement and sand mortar. For stone pitching to be laid, the soil must be at its angle of repose. This means slopes not exceeding seventy degrees from level ground.

In stone pitching laying, the use of differently sized stone slates is advised. The thickness should be at least twenty five millimeters. No dressing is required for this and therefore cost effective. Left over stones are broken into pieces. The ground is prepared by cutting soil back to the required slope. Its then wetted and compacted by with a ramming board. If the soil embankment is near a parking, a flat surface of two feet cut then make the slope.

The stone pitching commences at the slope bottom. First put a strip of lean concrete at the bottom. Place the stones onto the concrete as a base.Pattern large and small stones one by one. Erect short pieces horizontal and long pieces vertical. Cut slates of about one foot square and lay at the center of wall to give a feature. Lay up to the top.

When laying stone pitching, note to have points for adding vegetation in between the joints. Add mortar to the joints with a trowel and ensure it fills. Scrap off excess mortar and do key pointing. This follows the staggered joints. At arbitrary places no filling is done. This will allow plant roots to be pushed into the soil. Mostly this vegetation will be creeping plants. At the top and ends line with concrete as a stopper. Clean and cure the wall.

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Thursday, August 12, 2010

The Basics of Insulating Concrete Form Construction Technology

Insulating Concrete Forms, also known as ICF construction, is a concrete building system that offers superior strength, energy efficiency, durability and comfort compared to traditional construction methods. Although it has been predominantly used in the residential market during the past decade, commercial applications are rapidly increasing.

There are several other concrete home building systems, including masonry, reusable forms and pre-cast products. This article focuses on ICF technology and not on any specific manufacturer in the ICF industry.

ICF construction technology is not smoke and mirrors. It is a very proven product in a new package. Simply put, it is a reinforced concrete wall identical to the ones that have been designed for years as basements, foundations and retaining walls. The advantage is that the forming system is very lightweight, has high insulation properties and does not require removal. The finished wall generally incorporates integral attachment points for interior and exterior finishes.

With an ICF wall, the forms are stacked, the walls are braced and aligned and the concrete is placed in the stay-in-place form. The wall is simply a monolithic concrete core (just like any other concrete wall), with two continuous insulation layers. The faces (AKA flange) of the ties function as the furring strips for attaching interior and exterior finishes.

The initial idea for insulated block construction has been around for over 50 years. In the 70's, polystyrene foam was introduced. NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) performs an annual survey of residential builders across the US. According to their research, the market has exploded during the past 5 years. The ICFA (Insulating Concrete Forms Association at http://www.forms.org) reported that 16 percent of all new custom home starts in 2004 used ICF technology and the industry is growing by over 30% per year.

Conceptually, ICF technology is rather simple. They all use the same basic components including a face shell of expanded polystyrene foam, a core of reinforced concrete and a plastic form tie that supports the face during concrete placement. The foam panels are typically fully reversible, 2.5" thick by 16" tall by 48" in length. The plastic ties are typically 6" on center which provides incredible stability during concrete placement. The ties are embedded ½" inside the foam panel and their position is marked on the foam panel so installers can easily find them. The foam provides an R-22 continuous insulation plane from the footing to the top plate.

The concrete in an ICF wall is nothing special. Design specifications are typical of conventional foundation requirements. The one minor difference is the aggregate size. It is typically 3/8" pea gravel to allow for easy and smooth pumping of the concrete, especially for above grade applications.

Concrete placed inside an ICF actually achieves much higher than normal and specified strength. This is due to the ideal curing conditions, stable temperature and slow moisture loss rates inside the expanded polystyrene panels.

There are currently over 70 manufacturers of ICF's in the market around the US. I always get asked the question "Which one is the best?" The answer I always give is "Which is better, a Ford or a Chevy?" Depending on who is asking, I have the following responses:

Homeowner: It shouldn't matter to you. From a user's perspective, all ICF brands perform dramatically better than frame construction under every circumstance. The differences between brands will not be noticeable to you. You should perform standard due diligence and locate the best contractor and let the contractor use the product that he and his crew is most comfortable using.

Contractor: Here the differences are the greatest and affect the type and amount of labor required for installation and also the waste factor. Some brands require more on-site labor, others have a lower material and/or shipping cost. Others are pre-assembled to minimize on-site labor. Some forms have waste percentages approaching 10%, while others are closer to 1%. It really depends on personal preference and experience of the construction crew.

Architect: Cavity configuration affects the structural performance slightly, but all ICF brands have load-bearing and shear strength capacities far exceeding frame walls (up to 600% greater in some cases). As a designer, the biggest concern is the web tie face size and web tie spacing. (Example, vertical lap siding may require additional furring if the tie face is vertically oriented and has a wide spacing). It is worth noting that the placement of windows, doors and T-walls can be affected by web tie spacing. Typically, flat wall ICF products with closer web tie spacing require significantly less attention to these details.

I suggest contacting the Insulating Concrete Forms Association via the internet to obtain a list of primary members. These are some of the largest and best established companies. Like most any construction product you specify, whether it is plumbing, lumber, or windows, it is the local people providing the support and service that always make the biggest difference. Other valuable sources of reliable and non-biased information include: www.icfweb.com, www.icfhomes.com. It is worth noting that there are many other excellent resources available via the internet and that I don't own or control any of the websites listed in this article.

There are three interior core configurations of ICF's. Flat wall is a simple vertical section of uniform thickness and is the easiest to engineer and install. Waffle grid has vertical and horizontal cores - alignment of cores must be maintained by installers, but uses about 25% less concrete than flat wall. The thin web section is about 2" to 3" thick. Screen grid has same alignment requirements of waffle grid and utilizes a field installed spline between blocks for finish attachment. All three types are included in the Prescriptive Method for ICF Wall Design and the International Residential Code (IRC 2006) and concrete walls are typically all designed and engineered according the ACI 318. However, the newest engineering code standard, ACI 560, will no longer provide engineering data for waffle or screen grid ICF products.

Tags : Bamboo Towels

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

The French Modern Kitchen

Kitchens done in the French country style are very popular, but for those of us looking for something a little different and a little more "now" while still retaining that great French aesthetic, we have the style known as French modern.

The French modern design style incorporates classic French elements like blue walls and white accents with modern details like stainless steel appliances. A thoroughly French kitchen will have wide open surfaces, such as a long and uninterrupted counter or table, that can be used for food preparation and serving. French style kitchens also often include a center island - with or without built in sink - to provide more space to work.

The French style of kitchen design also focuses on visibility and openness. Cupboards and cabinets are often left open so that the contents can be see by anyone in the room. By "open," we do not mean the doors are left hanging open - rather, the doors are left of entirely or made of glass. If you want to try this approach for your cabinetry, leave the lower cabinets with their doors intact, and keep the upper cabinets designated as those to be left open. Paint the cabinets white to contrast with your blue walls, and choose kitchen cabinet knobs and drawer handles that blend in with the design idea - perhaps white fleur de lis shaped knobs and pulls.

The other home hardware need not match exactly with your cabinet hardware, but try to keep a similar look and feel for things like your door handles. For the rest of the room, flowers in eclectic little vases, more white accents like picture frames, and wine bottles with beautiful and unique labels are great ideas. If you are uncomfortable with having all of your upper cabinets left open, then perhaps you would prefer to keep only a certain section, such as those over the sink, open, and keep the rest with their traditional doors. You can put the wine bottles in the open ones for a lovely display.

While it is not always feasible to redo the whole kitchen to fit the French style, by ripping out current cabinets and installing all new long and wide open work surfaces, you can still get the French modern style for your home with decorative accents and a new coat or two of paint. Aim for the feel of a funky yet quaint little cafe and you won't go wrong.

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Protecting Your Goods With Leer Truck Caps

When it comes to buying truck caps, you can trust one name - Leer. This is a popular company manufacturing this product along with many others, such as truck canopies, toppers, bed covers, and camper shells. Leer Truck caps are quite popular because you can protect perishable items or different materials by covering them up with these caps.

These increase the utility of your vehicle and not only can you transport different items but you can give a more polished look to your vehicle. No longer will you have different items poking out from the vehicle's bed visible to view. Similarly, these won't be affected by the elements. With the Leer caps, you know that you've invested in something durable and long-term.

Durability and Function

By creating a smart appearance in the back of your pickup, you can park it anywhere and travel conveniently. However, you can't just select any cap. With the products offered by Leer, the material quality is guaranteed to be durable.

Another important consideration is enhancing the aerodynamics. This will allow you to run the vehicle with higher fuel economy. The open bed causes a lot of drag. Since the air moves through the back of the vehicle, it will definitely affect the gas mileage, which is not a very good thing.

When you use this brand, you get a smoother surface for the airflow to be considerably enhanced. This in turn reduces the drag. With high-tech engineering of the fabric and design, you get optimum efficiency. The designs are not only attractive but are practical. You can also get different styles.

Tonneaus Range

One very popular style is the tonneaus Leer caps. This is designed to be mounted against the bed wall right on the top. This basically becomes the lid on the top of the bed. In this manner, you can carry tall items and have the entire truck covered.

These caps are crafted out of fiberglass, which is weatherproof. Also with these products from Leer, you do not require any drilling to install the system. The rugged material is easy to install

With a host of colors and models, you can match up exactly to your vehicle. The product also comes with a warranty for protecting the structure and retaining its color. For specific pickups, you can even have custom-designed products from this company. So, what are you waiting for? Go get them!

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Monday, August 9, 2010

Water Or Moisture in Your Basement? How to Waterproof Your Foundation

Recently we received a call from a potential customer that had water in her basement. She found our company through a search on the Internet and mentioned our approach to waterproofing foundations seemed like more of a permanent solution than some of our competitors which offered foundation waterproofing solutions working from the inside, something that really is more of a temporary fix and it prompted me to write this article to explain the correct approach to waterproofing your foundation.

As a homeowner, your biggest investment is probably your house, but not only is it an investment, it is your home, a place where you keep your family safe, secure, and warm and too often we come across homes that have moisture or water in their crawlspace or basement, this can lead to all sorts of issues from damage to health issues related to mold.

Thankfully, there are permanent solutions to waterproofing your foundation. There is a saying "if your drainage is a mess, call us". This is really where it all starts, your drainage. Since we are based in the soggy and water saturated area of Seattle and the Greater Puget Sound we have seen these issues come up numerous times, even after another waterproofing contractor has completed their supposed fixes working from the inside, but we know the problems stem from the outside.

It's much like the analogy of a doctor giving you medicine to hide a problem, rather than diagnose what the problem is, and typically our diagnosis results in resolving the drainage issue, rather than offering temporary fixes to hide the problem.

Here is typically what your solution should entail for waterproofing your home and foundation. A house that is built on a foundation should always have what is called footing drains that may or may not be tied into your gutter drains surrounding the perimeter of your house. If you have water in your basement, it is often times because of failed footing drains if there are any footing drains, so what is needed to be done is to first excavate around the perimeter of your foundation.

At this point it is important to excavate to the base of the foundation and put a waterproofing membrane around the entire foundation, it is important to note, that some contractors may put an alternative material, one that does not create a true waterproofing membrane. After the membrane is applied, it is time to install your new footing drains using perforated pipe, you can ask your local supplier for detailed instructions. Make sure all your footing drains are sloped in the direction to your discharge point away from the house, possibly even to a drywell.

You have now completed a two part waterproofing system for your house and at this point water should not be penetrating your house, but you are not quite finished. You still need to order and fill trench with drain rock, cover with filter fabric, and backfill before you are totally finished.

I understand visualizing the process can be daunting, especially if you have decks, patios, driveways, landscaping, etc. around your foundation, that's why it is best to always use a qualified waterproofing contractor in your area. Just make sure they use an approach similar to the solutions we recommended in this article, one that offers a permanent solution with a 100% lifetime guarantee.

Thanks To : Shelf Holder

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Swimming Pools - Refinish and Refresh

Refinishing the surface of your swimming pool is a great way to change the look of it. In today's market there are several materials and colors to choose from. A pool finish specialist can guide you on choosing the finish that will give you the look you want, and depending on your budget can offer a large selection of materials to choose from.

If your budget is very limited a basic plaster finish will update your pool and repair any cracks that might be present. The traditional white plaster finish has been used on all pools since the beginning of pools. It is durable, easy to apply and budget friendly. A good builder can apply a plaster finish that is as smooth to the touch as tile, or a more textured appearance it that is what you desire. When a plaster finish is properly applied, your pool will have that clean clear and slightly blue look that everyone is accustomed to seeing. Plaster does, however, have it's weaknesses. Algae finds plaster a very inviting surface to attach itself to. Chemicals and water will affect the surface after a period of time. With proper maintenance your plaster finish will give you years of service.

Plaster can also be colored; the basic composition will not change. By adding a wide variety of colors available, you can change the appearance of your pool very easily.

If you would like a more textured look pebbles or tile can be used. These materials can be designed in simple single dimensional and color designs or with some imagination, and a good designer, some very interesting mosaics can be created on your pool surfaces. Pebbles and tile surfaces are more resistant to algae growth and can be cleaned much easier. These surfaces can be scrubbed and because chemicals have little effect on the finish, algae and bacteria killing chemical can be used to keep any build up from occurring.

Fiberglass finishes are becoming more popular due to the ease of installation and durability. Fiberglass is not affected by chemicals as much as plaster is. A fiberglass liner can be prefabricated and just dropped into your pool. Although, the variations of color and designs are fewer than with other materials, you do not have to settle for plain white, unless that is what you want. Fiberglass is not as smooth to the touch as plaster, but it does give you a slightly textured appearance.

For a really budget friendly solution to refinishing your pool, a vinyl liner is a simple, and inexpensive alternative. Color variances are quite limited, and vinyl is not as durable as the other finishes, but a vinyl liner can be installed very quickly. The life span of a vinyl liner is around 10 years, but this gives you the opportunity to freshen up you pool much more often than with other more expensive finishes.

Simply giving your swimming pool a fresh new finish will add new life to your pool.

Remember, a qualified pool builder is invaluable when making decisions on changes to your pool's finish.

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Friday, August 6, 2010

Retaining Walls - Is it a Suitable DIY Project?

Retaining walls can be functional or beautiful, depending on your landscaping needs. While you may be tempted to tackle this project on your own, you have to realize that there is a great deal of planning and work involved in building a structurally sound, safe, and effective retaining wall that also satisfies building codes.

Before you choose a this kind of style and type for your next landscaping project, you'll want to check and make sure that it will be up to code and legal. If you're hiring a professional to plan and build the retaining wall, they can assist you with obtaining necessary permits and ensuring that it meets all regulations and laws. This is important as you don't want to have your project torn down midway.

Although it may seem easy, it isn't advisable to build and plan a retaining wall on your own, especially if it is more functional than merely for decoration. There are many important factors to take into consideration such as its height, durability, the stress of the weight, slope of the area, and the type of soil present. Unless you have formal training, most of these things will present rather difficult problems. Professional landscapers are much better equipped to guide you through the process and you can supply them with any input about design, look, and size.

There are many materials you can choose for this. However, you will be limited in some cases if you are building a functional wall. Most people prefer durable, strong materials such as various rocks, concrete, or brick. These can come in a variety of styles and colors. They can also be manipulated to create patters or unique design layouts. The cost of these materials will vary greatly depending on the quality, amount required, and how it is to be installed.

There are two main design options that you'll have to decide between. You can choose to have an on-site building or a pre-plan the layout. Most professionals prefer to do at least some planning ahead of time in order to avoid mistakes that can cost you time and money. By building on site you may be able to achieve a more organic or unique appearance, but you run the risk of unforeseen problems and increasing the amount of time the project takes.

Your partition is useless if it isn't strong enough to hold up the soil or has proper drainage to prevent pressure collection from destroying it. Retaining walls need a drainage system so water and moisture from soil and plants can be released away from the wall. A landscaper can help identify places that need drains or other openings to help keep it standing.

When choosing a landscaper to build or plan your partition, ensure they have the proper experience and ask for some references. You should also be provided with some recent pictures with work performed that is similar to your goals and expectations.

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